The Forbidden Donuts - Your new Secret Weapon
Almost all of us outdoor climbers have been there... We’ve spent the off season working and working, training and training. We watch beta videos. We analyze our weak points from last season. We train harder.
The comp climbers among us are no different. We constantly strive for improvement and to correct our weaknesses. Core, upper body, legs, mobility and flexibility...
We’ve put in the time, and now the moment has arrived. It’s sending season! We head to the crag,boulders, or gym for the first comp of the season. Chalk up. Pull hard. And “POP!”
It’s one of the most terrifying sounds and feelings in a climbers career. Something is wrong with your finger. There’s shock, worry, and then the pain sets in. Is it a pulley!? A tendon?!
This moment can end your season. But why?
Why is it that so many climbers forget (or neglect) proper care and conditioning of their fingers? Your first point of contact with the rock. Just because you hit the campus board twice a week, and are cranking pull ups daily, doesn’t mean you’re giving your fingers the conditioning they really need.
We know this can be a tough thing to keep consistent on, so we’ve been working to make the little things just a little bit easier for you, to help you avoid season-end finger tragedy.
The Forbidden Donuts are our #1 training accessory to augment your routine with our door hangers or on the go. Available on their own, or as part of our Training Accessory Bundle.
What are they? And why are they so important?
We’re glad you asked!
Put simply, the donuts are a grip strength trainer. They are made from (insert materials here) and come in a set of 3 different stiffness’s.
Green - easy. For warming up, and for folks new to grip training. Green is your best friend.
Red - medium. The game changer.
Black - hard. For when it gets real.
Fingers are the most common part of the body to get injured in climbing activities. They are your first point of contact on the wall. And all to often the only thing keeping you attached.
Fingers need to be cared for before, during and after you climb. Our Forbidden Donuts help you warm up before, and keep conditioned after on rest days.
3 ways to use your donuts.
Grip strength - Your normal grip strength training. Hold the donut in the palm of your hand. Wrap your fingers around the top and squeeze it down into your palm.
If you’re just starting out. We recommend slow compressions in sets of 5. Then switch hands and repeat.
Crimp strength - Hold the donut by the tips of your fingers and thumb. With your thumb supporting from the bottom of the donut, attempt to squeeze the donut.
This is a more advanced training exercise. Even the green donut will feel significantly harder. Take your time with this one and you will see rewarding results over time.
Finger stretches - Good for getting your warm up or work out started. Simply hold the donut from the inside with one finger from each hand (ideally the same finger) and pull outward on the donut. Pull and hold when you feel the stretch. Be careful to not pull too hard. Just like on rock, you can pull tendons and pop pulleys while training.
Again, green is your friend here if you’re newer to finger conditioning.
Remember, don’t be afraid to take it slow with your progression. Finger injuries are serious business, and often occur during training when people try to push their limits too quickly.
Patience, grasshopper. The Forbidden Donuts are here to guide you.